Hikkaduwa part 3 - River safari, turtles, masks

We decided to give into the constant offers of a river safari and engaged our regular tuk tuk driver Lionel and one of his colleagues to take us to a place where we could hire a boat and driver. Lionel parks his tuk tuk at the entrance to the hotel and was always a bit downcast to see us in beach gear and not needing a ride. He was very pleased when we agreed to a trip further than just to the station. He was willing to stop at some other places, including the usual gem mines and turtle hatcheries too of course, so we set off with an open mind having tried to explain we have done many of these things already!

We travelled north along the coast road and were soon able to see the area still recovering from the tsunami. This area was one of the worst hit on the west coast as many people lived so close to the beach and it's low and flat. A long stretch had ruins on both sides of the road and many for sale signs. The tradition here is for land to be handed down to the next generation so to see it for sale indicated that there was probably no one left in the family to use it. A sobering sight.

We arrived at the boat place and were soon out on the Madhu river and amongst the mangroves. The first thing we encountered was a young boy, probably only about 10 years old, on a canoe and holding a baby monkey. I normally refuse to stop for people using animals to make money but the monkey was in Dan's arms before I realised what was happening. At least she wasn't dressed up and being made to dance next to a cobra kept in a tiny basket (and now you know why no pics of those 'local attractions' have appeared on the blog despite seeing many). She was given a red flower to munch on and seemed happy to be cuddled by two very excited but gentle children. We paid the small amount for the visit and returned the baby to its keeper. Money is hard to come by for many here so it is hard to begrudge such small amounts which can make a big difference.

 

We ducked under some low bridges and watched some other tourists stop for coconut drinks from a small stall on the river. The river widened and we passed some woven enclosures used to catch prawns. The driver explained that at night the fisherman lights a fire on top of the barrier and this attracts the prawns. He spends the night in a small hut built on stilts in the river to watch over his catch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The river then opened up into a huge lagoon (a lake really) which has many islands big and small. Some have just a small shelter on them and the largest has a population of 300. Dan was very happy to be given a chance to drive the boat although needed a bit of correcting as he couldn't see over the front! This largest island is connected to the mainland by a long narrow bridge which is only able to carry pedestrians, bikes and of course tuk tuks. It has its own school and not surprisingly a very old Buddhist temple which was our next stop.

 

 

The temple has a stupa which holds a small fragment of Buddha so it is a sacred place with a magnificent tree which came from a sampling of the oldest tree we saw earlier in our tour. This one was also pretty old. The monk on duty was very helpful and showed us the ancient books they still use for the daily chants. The pages are long leaves that are soaked to make them strong. The writing (which is in a very old dialect) is made by etching into the surface with a fine point and then dark oil is wiped across the surface to bring out the lettereing. He also gave us each a blessing which involved wrapping specially blessed white cotton around our wrists while he chanted.

 

 

Next we were offered the chance of a foot massage and to see a fish farm. Always up for another experience we agreed and headed off across the lake (Sarah's turn to drive) to the farm which was a grid of netted off sections each holding different types and sizes of fish. The 'massage' consisted of dangling our feet into a heaving mass of orange fish that frantically came for a nibble. We were all given bowls of fish food which just made the fish even more manic (and us squirm even more!). Rich was unable to bare the tickling and gave in first. The kids did really well and Dan was ridiculously relaxed about it. I could just bear it and we all ended up with very clean feet. Sarah was handed a baby croc and she enjoyed giving it a close inspection.

Back on board our boat we were off to see a cinnamon garden on another island and learn about the harvesting process which is all manual. We were shown how the branches are stripped of the first layer (this goes back into the garden as mulch) , then the cinnamon layer is removed and laid out to dry, and then the remaining stick is used on the fire. We learned about how good cinnamon is for our digestion and that the oil is good for both repelling mozzies and stopping the itch (and it smells pretty good too!).

 

On the way back to the boat place we came across a couple of water monitor lizards. These are big, fearsome looking beasts but very graceful in the water. They seemed quite unconcerned by us cruising alongside them so we were able to have a good look at them.

Back on land we found Lionel and partner waiting and were asked if we wanted to pay a bit extra and go to a turtle hatchery...YES from the kids so off we went again further north. This was a similar place to the last one although slightly bigger. The tanks were all new and most were named after the various foreign families who helped to rebuild after the tsunami wiped it all out. Again the aim of the place is to save and hatch eggs, releasing the males back to the ocean after a few days, and the females after about 4 years. We were given a fairly comprehensive tour which finished up with a look at a rare albino turtle. She will never be released as she would be an easy target for the sharks. The kids were again fascinated and so pleased to be able to handle the new hatchlings.

Next stop was a mask museum. The area is known for its carved masks which are very elaborate and depict all kinds of things including about every kind of ailment you could image. The masks are used in the traditional dances which tell many stories, both funny and serious. The museum was small but really well set up with some very ancient masks on display. We were led up to the shop afterwards but to be honest I didnt think I really wanted one on the wall at home!

Last stop, and probably the one which is most memorable was the tsunami museum. While the museum is just a collection of photos, pictures and writings by people affected by the devastation brought on by the tsunami on a Sunday morning in 2004 it is so important and unique and very overwhelming. The display included drawings from children which had heartbreaking images, and letters from parents still hoping for their families to be returned. We had some awareness of the impact of the tsunami from talking to locals we met and from hearing their stories but this really brought it home. I was surprised by how much the kids were engaged by the stories, especially Sarah who was last out and very quiet afterwards. Of the many places we have seen in nearly 3 weeks I think this will have left the strongest impression.

Back at the hotel after a big morning it was time for a late lunch and then into the pool. We saw photos of this pool at the museum, full of the remains of people's homes and businesses and surrounded by broken buildings. One of the pool guys was there when the first wave came. He said he just ran. It took 3 years for the hotel to be rebuilt and for him to find permanent work again. With no roads, no infrastructure and no income just feeding his family was his biggest challenge.

 

Sarah

• The baby monkey because we were allowed to hold it
  
• The baby croc I held because it had no tape around its mouth
  
• The foot massage because it was done by fish
  
• The cinnamon place because we got to smell different cinnamons
  
• The tsunami museum was really sad and upsetting
  

Dan

• The turtle farm because we got to hold the baby turtles and they had albino turtle
  
• The safari because we had our feet nibbled by fish
  
• The safari because we held a baby monkey
  
• The safari because we went to the temple island and got a blessing
  
• The mask museum because they told us about all the different masks
  
• The tsunami museum because it had interesting photos .
  

Rich

The best thing was the Tsunami museum

I enjoyed the peaceful boat safari and the fish massage was very amusing especially with my ticklish feet! I found the folk stories behind all the masks at the mask museum very entertaining too.

Without a doubt though the Tsunami museum made the biggest impact of the day. I was simply moved to tears. The heart rending stories and photos affected me quite deeply. I couldn't think about much else for the rest of the day. This was not a museum by any western description, just two peasant houses washed out by the tsunami, unrepaired, a bare and damaged four walls supporting the pictures and simply written stories and grief of those who survived, and the full horror of this natural disaster, no holds barred. We got very little coverage of this in Australia where news reports focused on Aceh in Indonesia, yet 40,000 people died here in Sri Lanka, another 15,000 still unaccounted for. The economy here in Hikkaduwa is almost entirely tourist based. The wave destroyed pretty much every hotel, every house, every fishing boat, every life along the beach and reef front. For 3 years until the hotels were rebuilt there was no economy, no way for these people to earn money, no way to feed their families. Just being in those two rooms for an hour destroyed me, but of course I could simply walk away, they can not. Deeply moving and something that will stay with me forever.

 

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