Thursday, 28 June 2012

Hikkaduwa - part 1

After we said goodbye to Pradeep, we checked into our beachside hotel which was to be home for the next 10 days. We were a bit disconcerted at how quiet and deserted it seemed with just a couple of local men sitting at a table. We were led up to our rooms and then the doubts did start to make some more noise...the rooms were quite dingy and while clean on the surface, on closer inspection the hard rubber mattress was visible thorough the thin, stained sheets. The aircon seemed to work but the room reeked of cigarettes and stale water and nothing short of a complete refurbish would be likely to shift the smell. Not to be deterred though we ventured out to the beach and checked out the pool on the way which looked okay. Once on the beach we were approached by a local who was worried we were going for a swim, "Not safe! An Australian died here not long ago". Well that really didn't go down well with the kids. So we decided to go for a walk into town and find some lunch. After a short discussion and some serious begging from the kids we decided to check out some other options a bit closer to the town centre and a bit more upmarket. After a first knock back due to fully booked hotel (who knew a thousand junior chess players with their large families from all over Asia would be in town - it's supposed to be the quiet time!) we found a lovely place with rooms available for a couple of nights and possibly longer. Three tuk tuk trips later Rich and a very happy Dan (he had been desperate for a ride in a tuk tuk since we arrived) had transferred the luggage and we moved into our very clean and light rooms with interconnecting doors and ocean views - heaven! Fortunately I hadn't paid for the other place although Rich paid for one night as an apology (and told them it was me who refused to stay there!).

The kids were soon in the pool and peace restored. The staff are lovely and have made us feel very welcome.

Over then next few days we explored the town and found the safe beach for swimming. Apparently the best time to come for surfing, diving etc is in December & January. Now is the end of monsoon season for the south, so the sea is really rough and dangerous on the beach, it looks like pretty spectacular surf for a braveheart. Away from the surf beach there is a reef running along the coast here and about 5 minutes walk from our hotel is an area where the reef forms a protected lagoon type area. It's lovely and clear and warm in the water, and right next to it is a reef area that you can stand in and watch all the fish swim around your legs. Beautiful!

On our first night at the hotel we were treated to a special show that was being put on for the cricket film crew who were also staying there. It was a peculiar mix of traditional fire dancing performed to loud duff duff music with the 2 performers dressed in gold sequinned outfits. It was pretty funny really with the crazy music and over the top dancing with flaming batons while the cricket people stood around looking cool and drinking cocktails. The kids enjoyed it and we were able to boost the applause for the performers.

 

On Sunday we ventured to the market behind the railway station. It was absolutely heaving - noise, smells, people, dogs (always) and rows upon rows of veges and dried fish, with some kitchen tools and fabric mixed in. There were about a thousand stalls and sellers shouting and yelling. We found it pretty chaotic and intense but the shoppers and sellers all smiled and said hello and looked at us as if we were a bit mad being there!

 

 

Once we made it out the other side it was straight to the beach for some serious hole digging and swimming. There were lots of other people there as it was also a holiday weekend with people coming from Colombo for the weekend. The kids attracted a lot of attention as always, with a group of young boys shadowing them in the water. Dan was soon digging a hole in the sand and was then joined by some helpers. The 2 young men were a bit boisterous though and collapsed the hole. One punished the other by sitting on him face down in the sand and getting Dan to join him. Dan wasn't too sure about all this but took it well (although later he admitted to being very sad about the hole collapsing). The locals are very chatty and interested in us and in what we think of their country. They are happy to sit and talk and ask questions, and answer ours. One young man commented on how lovely it was to see our children having so much fun in the water, "your children are very funny".

We started to relax and enjoy not being on the move. We found a couple of good eating places for dinner, including one which makes fabulous fresh pasta and great pizzas...very happy children!!! We bought some bread and cheese and Vegemite (!!!!) and have been able to have a simple lunch in our room which has been a nice change from the 3 times daily feasts we had been having.

Dan

  • The hotel because I didn't like the other one
  • The beach because it's awesome
  • Dinner because I had pizza
  • Fire dancing because it was fuuuunnnnyyyy!
  • tuk tuk (pronounced took took) ride because I had 6 of them !!
Sarah

  • The fire dancing because it was interesting to see what they could do
  • Dinner because it was delicious
  • The hotel it's much better than the other one
  • The beach has awesome waves
  • Going in the new pool because it's heated
Rich

Best thing. The view - over the 'new' hotel pool across the coral reef and out to the mighty crashing surf and the noise of the waves breaking onto it. There is just something about the sea.

(I could almost say the relief on my families face at changing hotels)

 

4 comments:

  1. I know that sinking feeling in the stomach when you walk into a less than satisfactory hotel room with a bed that you are scared to go near let alone sleep on. You did well to make the change as quickly and painlessly as you did. Lucky you hadn't paid 10 days in advance.
    RB have you seen a rugby game at all and been able to pass on some words of wisdom?
    Cheers
    Tez

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  2. BTW - have you tried the mangosteen fruit? Check it out - quite nice. Found in FNQ but hard to get in Victoria. Probably quite cheap there in the markets.
    Tez

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  3. Mazz. Phew! I was getting a bit concerned after the reference in your last blog to things going a bit wrong. So glad that normal service has been resumed in that little bit of paradise you have found. Enjoy!

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  4. Great photos, it looks wonderful. I'm constantly surprised at how interesting and enjoyable it all looks.
    As your friend says, definitely try the mangosteens if they are about, they are much better than "quite nice" I reckon. They were Queen Victoria's favourite fruit, a woman of good taste!

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